The Congo: Bumpy Roads, Mud and Mayhem

My week in The Congo is almost over...hard to believe...Just to paint a quick picture of the current scene around me as I type this: I am sitting on Morag's patio in Bukavu listening to the Barenaked Ladies on my new iPod (connected to speakers, because we have electricity today - but no running water), drinking wine, writing e-mails (using a wireless connection, which is amazing in itself). Up above on the other side of the street, the UN Pakistani Battalion (who we refer to as the Pak Bat) guards are watching us. We waved at them a little while ago. They are always there, perched in their little sky blue tree-fort-style shelter, wearing their sky blue berets. Over to my left, sitting on a low wall is a group of about 3 or 4 Congolese boys, just staring at us. White people here (Muzungus) always have an audience. In the trees around me are the African crows. I don't know what they are actually called, but they look just like crows who are wearing white undershirts. They make lots of noise, like crows, but they are a bit bigger (maybe more like ravens). We have been here for a week and we leave for Rwanda tomorrow. In some ways it feels like I've been here for a month (because I've experienced SO much) but in another way, the week has flown by and, now that I am into the routine, I don't want to go. I am craving Kraft Dinner, which I never eat back home...crazy, eh? The other day I had the honour of witnessing and participating in a group healing session for rape survivors...very moving and awe inspiring. I also had the opportunity to visit Panzi Hospital, which is where many of the rape survivors go for medical care. One of the doctors there is world renowned for the work he does for rape victims who have severe damage to their reproductive organs as a result of repeated and/or particularly brutal rapes. He was one of the Nobel Peace Prize nominees who lost to Obama.

Panzi Hospital

Last night I went to a UN club (at the base) where a whole bunch of soldiers and civilians danced and drank...not my scene, but an experience nonetheless! The club is called The Welfare Club and their tag line is "Your Welfare Matters". Everyone refers to it as "Welfare". So, the common expression is "Let's got to Welfare tonight" which, for Canadians, has a different connotation. The UN mission here in The Congo is called MONUC (Mission des Organizations des Nations Unis au Congo). During the genocide in Rwanda, for example, the mission was called UNAMIR (United Nations Assistance Mission in Rwanda). I have been meeting lots of Canadians which, in my other travels, has been a rare occurrence. Prior to going to the UN club last night, we were at a house party and there were 2 other people from BC!

I have spent a lot of time at Morag's workplace, using her computer, meeting her co-workers, etc. I went with her to a meeting at the UNFPA (UN Fund for Population Advancement) which no one else showed up for. Apparently there was some confusion around the time and day. I took a few photos of an original painting hanging on the wall. It depicts the pillaging and raping that happens when villages are attacked - very powerful.

Painting at UNFPA

Detail of painting Detail A few snapshots from the past week: I am walking down the street and, looking down, I realize I am stepping over a severed cat paw...Ew Ew Ew Ew...Morag's kitty, Simba, has no idea how good he has it. Of course I have been spoiling him with yummy food the whole time I've been here. Morag and her roommate want to know what my "exit strategy" is, i.e. What will Simba do once I'm gone?

Simba sleeping after a big night of partying

Me kissing a random kitten in a restaurant

Everytime we go out for dinner, at least once during the meal, the power goes out and we just continue on chatting in the dark, as if nothing has changed. Luckily, almost all restaurants have generators. Other than a few hours one evening, the whole time I stayed at Morag's, there was no running water. Showers consist of crouching in the bathtub and pouring water onto yourself. Morag's man-servant, Olivier, heats up water every morning before the power is turned off during the day. When we get up, there is hot water in a thermos for our instant coffee and powdered milk. There is also hot water in metal pots in the bathroom for our "shower".

Dinner on our last night in Bukavu

When driving, it is perfectly acceptable (even expected) that you drive all over the road like a drunk, in order to avoid huge gaping potholes that are often a couple feet deep. Even without this driving strategy, the driving here is insane. You take your life in your hands everytime you cross the road.

Morag has a walkie talkie which she uses to comunicate with her staff. They all have codenames and code words. She is like a cross between a spy and a military strategist.

Overall, I have to say that my time in the Congo was very meaningful to me. It was so amazing to be able to see first hand where Morag, someone who is like a sister to me and who I love to bits, lives and works. I watched her in action at work, I lived in her home, I met her friends and colleagues and I was able to see first hand what one of the most "broken" countries in the world is like. Bukavu makes other African cities (as well as most cities in other developing countries) that I have visited seem modern, clean and organized. And believe me, by our standards they are FAR from that! Despite the mud, the filth, the inconvenience, the unsafe conditions, I would not trade one minute of my experience in The Congo...well, maybe the fiasco at the border and the ride from hell...all while I was ill...but otherwise it was perfect chaos!

The compound where Morag works

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